WineAlign - Awards - 2021 NWAC Cabernet Franc

Results of the 2021 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada (The Nationals)

Cabernet Franc

Category Overview by Judge Michael Godel

Candid, forthright and complex Cabernet Franc

Few varieties in Canada exist in a vacuum of discourse and argumentation as does cabernet franc, that erudite, brutally honest and polarizing grape. From outside the vacuity wine tasters and lovers alike see the varietal relationship to wine appreciation as challenging, often exhilarating and almost always residing on one extreme end of the spectrum. Rarely is cabernet franc considered with middle of the road acuity, evasive of the space between and we inherently either love it or hate it. Yet the prevailing attitude in Canadian circles dictates that varietally pungent, hyaline and brutally honest cabernet franc must take a rightful place as one of Canada’s signature red wines.

(Jump straight to the medal winners.)

What makes cabernet franc great? As with similarly structured medium-bodied reds of western European origin there must be the kind of inviting acidity to forge symbiotic unions with wine-friendly food, concordant with the richness of marbled, sometimes smoked and more often than not, slowly cooked meats. Additionally, roasted nightshades, in eggplant, sweet peppers, tomatoes and foraged fungi are great fans. Even when no barrel aging is involved there is a genesis of perfume by way of France’s Bordeaux and Loire Valley. The key to making great cabernet franc is to allow the land a say and as it is said, “don’t screw it up.” Harder said than done but in this 2021 edition of the National Wine Awards of Canada the judges took note to find winners in the category from both the Okanagan Valley and the Niagara Peninsula. This serves to examine a perfect symmetry to exult and justify the grape’s place in the pantheon of both province’s varietal hierarchy. The Gold Medals were nearly split between the two provinces for a top ten cabernet franc category filled with expressive, site-specific wines to solidify and justify planting sites; Creek Shores, Lincoln Lakeshore and St. David’s Bench sub-appellations of Ontario; the East Bench of Osoyoos, Naramata Bench, Skaha Bench, Oliver and Lillooet in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.

A stunning 63 medals were awarded cabernet franc at this year’s Nationals; 2 Platinum, 9 Gold, 24 Silver and 28 Bronze. That is nothing short of a varietal miracle and only serves up proof as to the signature grape’s importance to Canadians and Canadian wineries. The split was nearly even, 32 medals to B.C., 31 to Ontario. To the medal winners know this: Your wines are representative of place, grape and the highest Canadian standard. Be proud of the award, regardless of colour. Who would not conclude that the greatness of cabernet franc is upon us with thanks to many great makers who have come to a place of deeper understanding. The future is wide open.

And the winners are…

Blasted Church 2019 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Peller Estates Niagara 2019 Private Reserve Cabernet Franc, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

13th Street 2020 Cabernet Franc June’s Vineyard, Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Fielding 2018 Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Fort Berens 2018 Cabernet Franc, British Columbia
Inniskillin Niagara 2018 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Mission Hill 2019 Terroir Collection Vista’s Edge Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Painted Rock 2019 Cabernet Franc, Skaha Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Ravine Vineyard 2019 Lonna’s Block Cabernet Franc, St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
River Stone 2019 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Thirty Bench 2017 Small Lot Cabernet Franc, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario