Appraising Austria: Value? Don’t Call Me Value! and Buyer’s Guide of Austrian Wines in the Ontario Market
By John Szabo, MS, with notes from David Lawrason, Sara d’Amato and Michael Godel
This feature was commissioned by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.
The WineAlign Crü sat down recently for our annual review of the Austrian wines currently available in the Ontario market, including LCBO Vintages and Destination Collection wines, as well as consignment (private import) wines. It was an excellent tasting. The notion of value repeatedly crept into my reviews. And I’m sorry for that. I’ll explain why.
More practically, for those hoping to enjoy the finest of what we found, go straight to the Buyer’s Guide. Contact the agent listed with each wine for details; many of the non-LCBO listings will be available for retail purchase at restaurants and bottle shops (but not likely at your local gas station or convenience store).
As a reminder, the LCBO’s Austrian Destination Collection is an expanded selection of wines exclusive to the shelves of a single LCBO store, in this case, part of the Central European Destination Collection, housed at the Dundas and Mavis LCBO (3020 Elmcreek Rd., Mississauga). Or, shop the collection online and hope that they’ll transfer to the LCBO nearest you (no guarantees…).
I also have it on good authority (from David Lawrason) that many of the Austrian Collection wines are available at the Bloor and Royal York LCBO (2946 Bloor St. W., Toronto), which is actually the Spain Destination Collection store. But thanks to enlightened store manager Alain Laliberté, a former wine writing/sommelier colleague and enthusiastic wine lover, the Austrian options are also deeper than the mean. As a side note, Laliberté also makes an astonishing 32 wines available to taste via the store’s Enomatic wine preservation system at the tasting bar. Even more astonishingly, there is no charge for a taste. Be sure to stop in on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday afternoon for the high-end selections. Bottles costing $200+ have been known to be on offer. Ask politely and he’ll open any of the Austrian selections for you to try before you buy.
And while you’re here, don’t miss my sister Austrian Report covering the always-excellent press tasting preceding the biennial VieVinum wine fair in Vienna. This past May I tasted 100 of the country’s best wines under the featured theme of “International Heroes” — that is, “wines that have achieved the highest awards at international competitions,” according to the Austrian Wine Marketing Board — the organizers of VieVinum and the entity responsible for the selections. The report highlights the best of the best.
Appraising Austria: Value? I’m Worth Much More Than That!
“This shows better volume, definition and structure than I expected from the price,” David reports about one grüner veltliner. “From one of the great white wine estates of Europe, this is a huge value,” he says about another.
“Get to know Weinkultur Preiß now, before the word is out,” advises Michael, referring to yet another grüner. And elsewhere, I catch myself saying aloud (and then writing): ”Such ‘real’ wine for $25? An increasing rarity.” And: “Surely a pricing misstep that we can take advantage of.” Along with the more simple and obviously damning descriptor, “good value.”
Tying these review snippets together is the underlying notion of value, a tricky, slippery little thing that can be misinterpreted.
I get that applying the word value to any wine can perversely tarnish its image, however unintended that may be. After all, taken in its most literal meaning — the monetary worth or importance of something — it might imply that low price is its strongest selling point, that the product in only worth what it costs, damning it with faint praise, as it were.
Value is especially damaging in the world of non-essential, luxury goods, like wine, where there’s no easy linear equation of how much a product should cost. Sure, more attention to detail, lower yields, more new wood, higher land and labour costs, etc., will all increase the cost of production. But not by remotely as much as the difference between the bottom and top ends of the wine market would imply. Price has everything to do with perception, and vice versa.
We know that perception of wine quality is strongly correlated to price: the more you pay, the better you think the wine will be. And the better you think it will be, the more likely you are to enjoy it, and therefore concur with the “value” that a producer has bestowed upon it with self-congratulatory satisfaction. Conversely, the lower the asking price, the lower the perceived value will be, which then proceeds to throw quality and pleasure under the bus. Even the most seasoned sommeliers can be bamboozled into fawning by famous names and fat prices.
But, what if, for whatever confluence of circumstances, a producer is able to make an excellent wine and charge a reasonable price for it and still come out whole at the end of the year? How should we describe that wine? Can we say great value without diminishing it in some way?
I confess it does baffle me to taste many of these wines and then look at price. I mean, Austria is not the Mediterranean, where the weather is reliably agreeable for grape growing. In Austria it rains. It hails. It’s hot and humid. It’s cold and damp. There’s some significant challenge every vintage.
Nor is Austria like the Central Valley in Chile or the flats of Australia’s Riverlands. A huge number of vineyards are planted on steep hills — I’ve seen them, like double black diamonds on the ski hill, terrifying for a tractor driver. And where they’re too steep, the hillsides are cut into terraces held together by handmade dry-stone walls, which require a monumental amount of labour to build and maintain them. Not to mention the manual labour required to farm grapes on these slivers of stones where no tractor dare shuffle.
At the same time, Austria is a world leader in terms of acreage under organic and biodynamic farming. Almost all wineries are at least certified sustainable.
All of these factors lead to higher production costs. And yet, genuinely excellent wine can be found throughout the country at extremely reasonable prices, especially relative to comparable quality from other parts of planet wine. I’d even state that some of Austria’s most expensive wines are in fact the best values. Forty or fifty dollars buys you a benchmark, whereas elsewhere that gets you an introductory offer.
So, there you have it. Against the odds and logic, Austria manages to make some of the most extraordinary value wines in the world. Though they’re worth much more than that. My apologies to Austrian vintners for applying the V word.
And for a window on what some of the world’s top wine professionals have to say about Austrian wine and the latest trends, click on the YouTube link below. The video was filmed in Vienna this past May during Vievinum, and features host Aleksandar Zecevic of Wine Enthusiast Magazine and a cast of characters from around planet wine including Treve Ring, writer and NWAC judge from B.C., Toronto sommelier and “Grape Witch” Krysta Oben, and this author.
Buyer’s Guide: Austria in Ontario White
Winzer Krems Sandgrube 13 Grüner Veltliner 2022, Niederösterreich, Austria
$17.95, Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd.
David Lawrason – From one of the larger producers in Austria this shows better volume, definition and structure than I expected from the price. It has a nicely present nose of ripe peach/apricot, lemon blossom, wax and gentle spice. It is medium bodied, weighty and nicely structured with some CO2 spritz adding energy. The length is very good.
Aigner Weinzurl Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kremstal, Austria
$21.15, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
John Szabo – Arch-classic, particularly stony, white pepper-inflected grüner from the Kremstal, with crunchy green apple acids and fresh green lentil flavours, with a squeeze of lime. Balance is spot on. Great value. Drink or hold up to 3 – 4 years.
Aigner Krems Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner 2022, Kremstal, Austria
$23.60, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
David Lawrason – This is a quite rich yet poised grüner with a complex exotic nose of lemon wax, pineapple, paraffin, anise/fennel and some leesy notes. It is medium-full bodied, quite smooth, with very good acidity. Some pithiness and bitterness on the finish. Excellent length.
Preiss Ried Hochschopt Grüner Veltliner 2021, Niederösterreich, Austria
$25.00, Marchands des Ameriques
Michael Godel – Fifth-generation winemaker Viktoria Preiß’s single vineyard grüner veltliners come from Rosengarten, Brunndoppel, Berg and, here, also Hochschopf, located in the village of Nussdorf at 300 metres with a view overlooking the Danube. Get to know Weinkultur Preiß now – before the word is out.
Hajszan Neumann Grüner Veltliner Natural 2022, Austria
$25.00, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Golden bronze colour, true to type in the natural camp, but with uncommon energy and even freshness – wow – this is a revelation! Looking at it, you’d expect a dead, oxidized wine, but when you get in on the palate there’s genuine vibrancy and life.
Zull Gruner Veltliner Weinviertel 2023, Niederösterreich, Austria
$32.95, Wilson Group Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Bursting with flavour, Zull’s generous and expressive Grüner is loaded with green apple, lime leaf, starfruit, green melon, blossom mineral, and almond. Easy drinking and zesty with good length. Ready to drink, expressive, and without pretence.
Wohlmuth Gutsabfüllung Weissburgunder 2022, Austria
$25.20
John Szabo – Another vibrant and life-full wine from Wolmuth – Gerhard is making such great wines from his ridiculously steep vineyards in northern South Styria on shist/slate soils, such a unique “island” in the region. Such “real” wine for $25? An increasing rarity. To buy by the case.
Ecker Eckhof Burgunder Cuvee Weissburgunder Chardonnay 2022, Austria
$26.95
Sara d’Amato – An elegant, juicy chardonnay blended with floral pinot blanc, brimming with lime, tangerine, ripe pear, and white peach. Features a leesy texture along with a touch of slivered almond. Fruit forward with a sweetly ripened character balanced by firm acidity and a dry finish. Engaging and lively with notable complexity and memorable length.
Loimer Gluegglich Glückliches, Austria
$26.00, Le Sommelier Inc.
Michael Godel – A skin-macerated white made with an endless landscape of varieties. Not sure if this is serious or just fun, so will go with the latter because cleanliness is next to Gluegglich-ness and easy drinking is the order of the delicious day.
Loimer Grüner Veltliner 2023, Kamptal, Austria
$27.20, Le Sommelier Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Calm, cool, and collected with a mint-green label soothing to the eyes. Discreetly aromatic with lime leaf, elderflower, ginger, almond, and fennel on the nose. Zesty but balanced with gentle lees and flavours of cucumber, white tea and mineral that mark the palate. Features a pleasant texture and notable persistence.
Wohlmuth Kitzeck Sausal Grauburgunder 2022, Austria
$28.75
John Szabo – A stellar pinot gris here from the northern reaches of Styria in the high-elevation (600+ metres) Kitseck-Sausal subregion and its maximum interpreter, Gerhard Wolhmuth. I love the tension and the energy, the knife’s edge balance and the terrific length. Surely a pricing misstep that we can take advantage of. Drink now through -2032.
David Lawrason – This is a quite lithe and tender pinot gris, obviously from altitude and stony soils. The nose is fragrant but not too intense, with fresh fig, pear, honeysuckle and even a delicate hint of mint. It is very well balanced and refined, with a gentle mineral finish. The length is excellent to outstanding.
Hager Matthias Mollands Grüner Veltliner 2023, Kamptal, Austria
$34.04, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – A signature Austrian white that states its business, claims its territory and delivers waves of toothsome varietal style. Stands up to be noticed, and counted!
David Lawrason – This is quite lean and elegant — not as forward as many. There is also a leesy note, with less obvious fruit. The honeyed, bready and peach notes remind me of pinot gris. It is light to medium bodied, quite firm, linear and very long on the finish. Some minerality here.
Schloss Gobelsburg Langenlois Grüner Veltliner 2023, Austria
$43.13, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – Lovely depth and aromatic breadth on this 2023 “village” wine from Gobelsburg’s vineyards around Langenlois. A bold and dense wine yet still light and agile. It’s a hugely satisfying wine with genuine flavours and integrity, best 2025–2032.
David Lawrason – From one of the great white wine estates of Europe, this is a huge value. There is such great interplay of richness yet structure in this wine. Not to mention depth and complexity. Expect very generous aromas of almost tropical yellow fruit (papaya) with some waxiness, white pepper, wet stone and subtle fresh herbs. It is medium-full bodied, intense, rich yet dry — voluminous yet focused — with excellent to outstanding length. It will certainly age but doesn’t need to.
Preiss Ried Hochschopt Grüner Veltliner 2021, Niederösterreich, Austria
$25.00, Marchands des Ameriques
Sara d’Amato – A single vineyard grüner from the newer Traisental region designated in 1995, dotted with small wineries and known for its high proportion of grüner plantings. Features a pleasant degree of viscosity, notes of ginger, lime, and white peach with a hint of toastiness. Mid-weight, well balanced, with appealing tension and very good length.
Buyer’s Guide: Austria in Ontario Red
Triebaumer Zweigelt 2021, Burgenland, Austria
$28.90, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
John Szabo – Here’s a more serious example of zweigelt from Günter Triebaumer’s lakeside vineyards in Rust. It’s cool and nicely composed, with impressive length and depth. Balanced, sophisticated and enjoyable now, but no rush.
Michael Godel – Just doesn’t have the feel of commercial or strict winemaking protocol, instead there is a “let’s see what will happen if we try this” kind of approach. In this case it works — and if cru Beaujolais at the hands of an inventive thinker is your bag, then this zweigelt will fulfill similar hopes and dreams.
David Lawrason – This is nicely made, well-balanced, smooth yet energized zweigelt. The colour is bright purple ruby. Generous aromas include black fruit most like mulberry, with subtle pepper and cedary wood spice. It is medium weight, almost glossy yet nicely juicy and lively on the finish. Tannins are very mild. The length is very good.
Sara d’Amato – Grown on the banks of Lake Neusiedlersee that benefit from foggy mornings and a long growing season. Undeniably compelling, this blaüfrankish is a waterfall of peppery rotundone on the nose. Stylishly reduced with black currants and red cherries lifted by zesty acidity. Tannins are silky and polished, rounding out the palate.
Treibaumer Blaufränksch Rust 2021, Burgenland, Austria
$30.40, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
John Szabo – Another terrific wine from Triebaumer, this bluafränkisch pours a pure purple-red colour and delivers a cool and composed set of aromatics in the fresh-tart cherry and purple flower spectrum. I love the succulence and the zest, the polished, fine-grained tannins, the pretty, perfumed finish. Drinking really well now or will hold late into the decade.
David Lawrason – This is an engaging, lively and almost rich bluafränkisch. Lovely aromatics with fragrant blueberry/cassis fruit, pepper, deep violet and a meaty note I often get with this grape. It is medium weight with some textural gloss, then a tighter, tartish finish. Moderate tannin. Excellent length.
Loimer Pinot Noir 2021, Niederösterreich, Austria
$39.00, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Lovely, sultry, floral, complex and engaging pinot, biodynamically – produced from leading vigneron Fred Loimer, a wine of terrific finesse and elegance from estate vineyards in the Thermenregion (Gumpoldskirchen) and the Kamptal (Langenlois). And to think this is his entry-level pinot…
Michael Godel – A most excellent vintage results in a helluva fine and effusive pinot noir, varnished and polished. Layers of fruit and earth, stitched together as one contiguous varietal entity.
That’s all for this special report. See you over the next bottle.
John Szabo, MS
This feature was commissioned by Austrian Wine Marketing Board. As a regular feature, WineAlign tastes wines submitted by a single winery, agent or region. Our writers independently, as always, taste, review and rate the wines — good, bad and indifferent, and those reviews are posted on WineAlign. We then independently recommend wines to appear in the article. Wineries, wine agents, or regions pay for this service. Ads for some wines may appear at the same time, but the decision on which wines to put forward in our report, and its content, is entirely up to WineAlign.