Buyer’s Guide to Vintages October 5th Release

The Wine Industry is Just Fine, Thank You, and Fall-Friendly Flavours
By John Szabo MS, with notes from Megha Jandhyala, David Lawrason and Michael Godel

In Bumpy Waters but Not Going Down

Fall is upon us, and Thanksgiving is around the corner. For this week’s report we bring you a range of fall-friendly favourites from the October 5 Vintages release on the theme, with plenty of options in the satisfying cool-weather range. Of note are a couple of mature wines that have reached their peak savoury-earthy-autumnal drinking windows, primed to hit your table this weekend. Other Turkey-friendly (with cranberry sauce) wines are plentiful in this release including fine local options of gamay and pinot noir, and classic Tuscan sangiovese and more obscure refosco from Italy, while cool weather whites recommended by the WineAlign Crü include chardonnay, chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc. Elsewhere, read my latest report and buyer’s guide: Hungary: Land of Plenty, to learn why this classic European wine-producing nation is poised to make a splash. And for those of you who make a living in the wine industry, I have some good news for you. The keynote speaker at Somm Con, an industry conference in San Diego from where this report originates, reports that the industry is in bumpy waters but it’s not going down, as the headlines would lead you to believe. Read on for the good news.

“In bumpy waters but not going down,” concluded Shilah Salmon, the SVP of marketing for Jackson Family Wines in her keynote speech at Somm Con San Diego entitled, “Changing the Narrative: Using Data to Combat the Negative Narrative and Seize the Opportunity.” Somm Con is an annual gathering of beverage professionals who gather to discuss ideas and taste wines for the betterment of the industry.

Salmon was referring to the beleaguered wine industry, the target of countless doom-and-gloom headlines in the last year. Everywhere one looks there’s another story about declining wine consumption, competition from other recreational drugs and drinks, over-supply of winegrapes and emergency schemes to rip out vineyards, climate chaos affecting growers, the dire health consequences of consuming alcohol, and more sensational click-bait headlines.

While Salmon acknowledged that the wine industry is facing challenging times, she remains positive about the future. The ship is not about to sink. She pointed to other periods in the 1980s and 1990s when many pundits predicted the downfall of the wine industry from various market forces but assures us that it is not as bad now as everyone thinks. “I’m a facts-and-statistics girl,” she told the audience, and proceeded to show a series of slides that tell a different narrative. Jackson Family Wines, the ninth largest wine company in the U.S., has access to a vast amount of retailer data that paints a less gloomy picture for the future of wine.

Salmon first pointed out two separate, if related issues. One is the health of the wine industry, and the other, the health of wine itself. The latter, the impact of wine on one’s health, she only briefly touched upon, pausing only to point out that the World Health Organisation’s declaration that there is no safe level of alcohol consumption is based on flawed studies, as several others have pointed out. “We have mountains of evidence establishing that moderate wine consumption has health benefits,” she said, while acknowledging that, as a wine retailer, her words carry less weight. But she said industry groups and their lawyers are working hard in the background to make the case. The negative impact on wine consumption from the WHO’s statement, and those from other groups, is real and measurable, she said, pointing to the temporary decline in consumption in the U.S. in the 1980s when Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD) — a movement she calls neo-prohibitionist — was at its height.

But Salmon preferred to focus her presentation on the other issue: the health of the wine industry itself. And here she was more buoyant. Using U.S. sales statistics, she reported that the value of wine purchased between 2018 and 2024 was up 46%. “Tell me,” she asked, “what other industry in the world worth billions of dollars annually, and with growth of 46% over just six years, would say that they are in crisis?”

The decline most often reported, she said, is in the volume of consumption — this occurred at the low end of the price spectrum, where wineries are in much more trouble. Her statistics demonstrated what the industry has been saying for years: “Consumers are drinking less but better.” During that same 2018–2024 period, sales of “premium” wines — defined as those $10 USD and above — showed positive growth, with the $50+ USD prestige category showing the most robust increase at 9%. “The wine industry has been preaching premiumization for 15 years,” she said, ”and now that it has been premiumized, everyone is freaking out.”

And the overall drop in global wine consumption is explained by the drop mainly in Europe, a trend that is the reverse in most other parts of the world. Since 1991, wine consumption in the U.S. has increased 58%, while per capita consumption in Europe has dropped over the same period by headline-grabbing numbers. “But they [Europeans] were drinking like a bottle a day, which was maybe too much,” Salmon joked. Per capita consumption is simply becoming more balanced around the world.

Salmon also pointed out that in 1962, 62% of adult Americans consumed alcohol; and that in 2023, the percentage remained unchanged. So, it appears, people are not running away from alcohol, it’s just what and how much they’ll pay for it that is shifting over time.

Another concern is that the “younger generations” are moving away from wine. But Salmon showed how, statistically, this has always been the case. “People age into wine,” she demonstrated, with those aged 35–54 representing the highest percentage of wine drinkers. The youngest age-of-majority group has never been a significant contributor to wine sales.

To conclude, Salmon urged those in the wine industry to change the negative news cycles by flipping the narrative. “There are so many positive aspects to wine.” She pointed to the fact that it’s a natural, plant-based product (“100% grapes”), mostly vegan-friendly and gluten free — all things deemed to be of importance to the current generation. Wine is also sugar-free for the most part, despite the misleading campaigns launched by “certain wine companies” claiming the evils of “other” sugar-laden wines, which she declined to name but called “imposters.” She lamented that 48% of consumers now think wine has more sugar than other alcoholic beverages. The misinformation is resonating deeply and affecting sales. But the reality is that the vast majority of wines, especially in the premium segment — and those that are not intentionally sweet like late-harvest wines — are in fact dry.

Also on the positive side, Salmon pointed to recent studies that show an ongoing “relationship renaissance.” That is, a resurgence of people craving human interaction and that wine is, and has always been, a catalyst for bringing people together. She urged wine companies to be more inviting and inclusive with experiential events and shared how La Crema, one of the main JFW brands, sponsors the WNBA and a dozen Pride events across the U.S., among other initiatives to bring new people into the wine world.

She advocated for more experiential events that are “fun, weird, different” and take place in high-energy spaces that meet consumers where they are, and to attach fundraising to events, as the social piece is particularly important to current and future wine drinkers.

Though the wine industry in undoubtedly going through bumpy waters, it seems the ship is resilient enough to stay afloat, and even thrive. It’s more a question of who will stay on board. “The wine industry has been around for 8,000 years, it’s not going anywhere,” Salmon said as she summed up her presentation. “We just need to spread the positive news.”

FYI: We were pleased to be highlighted in the September 21, 2024 Vintages New Releases magazine as a review source that the LCBO trusts. WineAlign is listed among the most respected wine publications in the world. When it comes to wine contests we also run the National Wine Awards of Canada where all wines are tasted blind by our panel of judges.

Source: Vintages Magazine September 21, 2024

Buyer’s Guide October 5: White

Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2022, Casablanca Valley, Chile
$17.95, PMA Canada
John Szabo – Perfectly delicious, zesty, ripe but lively chardonnay from one of Chile’s most progressive companies, and all the more appealing for its environmental cred: organic, vegan, sustainable, etc… Drink now.

Cave Spring Estate Grown Cave Spring Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, CAVE SPRING CELLARS
John Szabo – Apologies for the overused comparison, but this does really resemble proper premier cru Chablis; depth and density, and salinity, drive additional sips. Really worth a look. And for $22? Terrific value, needless to say. Drink or hold 3–4 years.
Michael Godel – Gabriel Demarco finds truth in the details and brings Beamsville estate fruit to life. This does not strut. The calm demeanour and stage presence instead express confidence and respect, especially at this price.

Heaphy Pinot Gris 2023, Nelson, New Zealand
$19.95, Rare Earth Wines
David Lawrason – From maritime Nelson on the north coast of the South Island, this pinot gris registers coastal oyster-shell ambiance. The fruit, however, is quite tropical, with peach and passion fruit and linden florality. It is mid-weight and quite brisk yet balanced by some sweetness. An engaging exploration.

Radford Dale Vinum Chenin Blanc 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$19.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – The latest from Radford Dale fits tightly in the house style, which is to say appealingly flinty-reductive. I like the zesty lime peel flavours, the resinous-green notes with a drizzle of honey, and the impressive length. An ever-reliable, sharp value, with the ’22 in particular over-delivering. Drink now to 2028.
Megha Jandhyala – This old bush-vine chenin blanc is rich, perfumed and enticing, with surprising balance and complexity for under $20. Subtle mineral notes overlay flavours of ripe stone and citrus fruit and pink honeysuckle blossoms, while the palate is glossy and firm, with a long-lasting finish.

Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc 2022, California, Usa
$39.95, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – Classic Mondavi based on the white Bordeaux model, with some semillon and certainly some barrel works. It is full-bodied, open-knit, warm and intensely flavoured with lifted classic aromas of fresh fig, basil, spearmint, candle wax and wood spice.
Michael Godel – Far from a simple white-wine sipper, with more layers and flavours, complexities and structural axes than many of its previous designs and especially other Napa Valley ilk.

Buyer’s Guide October 5: Red

Cabriz Colheita Selecionada 2020, Dão, Portugal
$13.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – Very few $14 wines can be re-released 14 months later and still deliver the same qualities of juiciness and spice. This, from Cabriz, does just that.

Versado Malbec 2018, Mendoza, Argentina
$21.95, Cru Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Nearly three years have gone by and this Versado 2018 remains in lovely condition. Speaks to the promise, yeoman work and demand for quality that Canadian winemakers Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling will always follow.
Megha Jandhyala – The Versado presents an opportunity to taste the fruit of a Canadian-Argentinian project, led by Canadian winemakers Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble. This is a dark and dense malbec, still potent and compelling but showing some maturity and poise with age. I love the intensity, balance, and silken texture of this wine and at $22, it is a very good buy indeed.

Borgo Conventi Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso 2023, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$21.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
David Lawrason – Serious wine for fans of lighter reds from the refosco grape of northeast Italy. This delivers good intensity with pretty pomegranate, raspberry fruit, evergreen and herbal notes. It is light to mid weight, firm indeed — almost rigid — with some gritty tannin.

La Chevalière Rasteau 2022, Rhône, France
$23.95, Dbino Inc.
David Lawrason – This is a pretty, lighter, balanced and fresh southern Rhone, with classic aromas of strawberry/black cherry jam, pepper and violets. It is medium weight with a juicy, tartish acid line not often encountered in the southern Rhone and better than expected length.
Megha Jandhyala – This Rasteau appeals to me because of its freshness, lightness and fragrant abundance of cheerful red fruit and sweet resinous herbs. It is best enjoyed in its youth and will make for a cozy drink over the fall and winter.

São Miguel Escolha Dos Enologos 2021, Alentejo, Portugal
$23.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – From southern Portugal, this sumptuous wine has a generous nose of violet, blackberry/plum, vanillin and spice. It is medium-full bodied, plush, smooth and warming (14.5%) with easy tannin, fine-grained tannin.

Dievole Chianti Classico Docg Petrignano 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$28.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – This is an intensely flavourful, supple and appealing Chianti Classico. Very lifted, classic aromas of sangiovese red fruits are joined by piquant rosemary/thyme botanicals and well-knit oak spice. It is medium weight, smooth, perhaps a touch soft and hot, but very appealing.
John Szabo – A red to buy by the case to have around for the next 3–4 years in order to follow its evolution. A tremendous value in textbook Tuscan style, sophisticated and polished.

Hidden Bench Estate Organic Gamay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – What a lovely gamay— certainly among the ripest and best yet from Hidden Bench. It has more colour depth than expected and generous aromas of strawberry/cherry fruit, soft florals and subtle oak. It is light to medium bodied, nicely composed and effortlessly balanced.
John Szabo – This is Beaujolais cru-level wine from Hidden Bench’s organically-farmed vineyards; 2022 provided for a plush and ripe, concentrated gamay, with impressive depth and complexity.
Megha Jandhyala – This delightfully succulent, silk and firm wine showcases how Ontario gamay can be both varietally representative and inimitable at the same time. I love its radiant red fruit flavours, gentle spice notes, and sweet, delicate floral scent. I would buy a few bottles of it to take to dinner parties with friends less familiar with Ontario as a wine region to introduce them to its appeal.

Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$30.00, Arterra Wines Canada
John Szabo – Like the ’21 Village Chardonnay from LCJ, the pinot is a lovely, balanced and succulent wine, back on the cool climate track after the burlier ’20s. It’s drinking beautifully now; chill lightly and enjoy over the next year or two — no need for longer term cellaring.
Megha Jandhyala – Thomas Bachelder has wrought his magic again with this gently evolving, perfumed and poised, yet flavourful and structured example of Ontario pinot noir. Oak-derived spices are seamlessly woven into a silken palate infused with fleshy red berries, dark cherries, dried herbs and the beguiling scent of fresh magnolias. I would buy a few bottles of this wine to enjoy now or over the next couple of years.

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2019, California, USA
$32.95, The Independent Wine Company
Michael Godel – As a ’19 it has now come into its maturity with ideally settled parts, not to mention nuance that helps to separate from the pack. Quality and complexity like this are today unheard of at this price.

Travaglini Gattinara 2020, Piedmont, Italy
$38.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Michael Godel – This 100% local nebbiolo used to be such an austere wine but now offers some amenability and even grace just four years after the harvest. Thirty years ago this wine was $30. As far as inflation is concerned, in 2024 this is a steal.

R. López De Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain
$41.95, John Hanna & Sons
John Szabo – Like stepping back in time to a drawing room filled with old books and polished wooden furniture, with cedar panelling on the walls. Decanters containing old sherry and whisky are off to the side, contributing their perfumes to the atmosphere, as is a plate of dried figs and roasted walnuts. It’s warm outside, as it was in 2012, adding to the headiness of the wine. The afternoon lingers on enjoyably — there’s no rush. A lovely afternoon. Decant 30 minutes before serving and drink now, or hold another decade in the cellar, longer for the 750 ml bottle. (Note: Tasted from a 375 ml bottle, the wine is also being released at the LCBO in 750 ml.)

Château Coufran 2009, Bordeaux, France
$43.95, Connexion Oenophilia
John Szabo – What a treat to be able to buy 15-year-old red Bordeaux for an attractive price, ready to enjoy over the coming holiday season in its full and glorious prime.

Buyer’s Guide October 5: Fortified and Mead

Barbeito 5 Year Old Malvasia Reserva, Madeira, Portugal
$17.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
John Szabo – Non-vintage Madeira is remarkably consistent from bottling to bottling (like NV champagne, or sherry), so little surprise that this latest bottling is as superb as the one I tasted five years ago. It’s such a silly value. Barbeito usually falls on the drier side of each style category, and again here, the sweetest malmsey comes across like caramelized lime purée on the finish, relentless, uncompromising, almost dry. I mean, where does one find this kind of complexity and originality at $18? Bring this out with the hard sheep cheeses at the end of the meal.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a stunning Madeira — deeply concentrated, representing an enthralling balance of sweetness and tartness, and lingering seemingly endlessly on one’s palate. I love the intense flavours of orange marmalade, lemon preserve, dried orange peel, caramel, honey, spice, milk chocolate…and so on. At under $18, it represents shockingly great value, and I would jump at the opportunity to buy several bottles of it for my cellar.

Moniack Mead, Scotland, World
$22.95, Marchands des Ameriques
John Szabo – A mead that delivers undeniably pure and intense honey flavour, also lovely floral notes, like Sweet William and freisa, violets and roses — such a floral mead, like liquid wildflower honey with a dash of alcohol (14.5% declared). I have to say, there’s so much fun you could have pairing this with food. The most obvious is with the cheese board, especially the blues and the hard, aged sheep and cow’s milk cheeses.

That’s all for this report, see you round the next bottle.

John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our October 5th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – October 5th
Megha’s Picks – October 5th
Michael’s Mix – October 5th
Szabo’s Smart Buys – October 5th

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