Buyer’s Guide to Vintages August 10 & August 24 Releases

The Long, Long LCBO Summer Ends with Great Low-Priced Values

By David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala

Thank goodness — for those of us whose lives are bound up with the LCBO — that the long, long LCBO Summer is almost over. And bonus that my first trip to a convenience store to buy beer and cider is just around the corner. I will check out the wines, but not holding out hope for a miracle selection.

To recap for those who have zoned out since Canada Day weekend, LCBO employees went on strike July 5, and closed stores for the first time in the LCBO’s 97-year history. The Canadian Union of Public Employees rightfully feared for their jobs with the on-rushing sale of wine, beer and RTDs (ready-to-drink alcohol beverages) into convenience stores September 5; then, coming in early November, a greatly expanded grocery and big box retailing market. I wrote about the strike here at the time.

Henry Of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2020, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Escarpment

There was no consumer outrage over the strike, we simply shopped for wine elsewhere thanks to years of creeping liberalization/privatization since 2016. The LCBO kept online ordering going, but it quickly became chaotic with long delivery times and thousands of orders eventually being cancelled by the LCBO. Agents selling direct to consumers and restaurants were hobbled by picket lines at some LCBO warehouses. On July 19, the strike ended with the government promising LCBO workers job security and no store closures.

But no one has said for how long! Once private competition and more open pricing is fully established over the next two plus years, I am betting on the eventual, gradual closing of LCBO stores. There will simply be no rationale for taxpayers to prop up less-efficient, more-costly government stores.

The strike tossed the Vintages release program off the rails. The July 5 release sat unsold in shuttered stores for two weeks. The July 20 online release was scrapped, then in early August it was announced that the huge 150-wine August 10 release would be delayed and rolled into the August 24 flagship stores release. So, for six weeks there was no new stock flowing onto the shelves. Bleak!

It came back with a vengeance last week with 190 new wines arriving at the largest LCBO flagship stores. But it was not without hiccups, at least at the store where WineAlign shops. It took three days to get all the wines on shelf, a situation not helped by vacationing staff shortages. Nonetheless by the end of day Friday, the WineAlign Crü tasted about 75 wines, and we present our picks below, in ascending price order.

I always look for silver linings — this time found in some truly great values. August releases have historically featured lower priced wines — put on shelf while fewer people are looking — and this year there are many examples. Of the 149 wines on the August 10 release there are only 15 wines over $30, 58 between $20 and $30, 64 between $15 to $20, with 12 under $15. We highlight some of the best buys below.

The values tend to be found in regions that have historically not been able to achieve premium prices — South Africa, of course, South America and southern Europe. Why all from the south? In fact, there is considerable critic alignment on a dandy clutch of whites and light reds from Sicily and Greece that offer terrific value in brisk yet highly structured wines from native Mediterranean white grapes like assyrtiko, grillo, malagouzia, and reds grapes like frappato and nerello mascalese. Many have a summer drinking vibe. You will spy them in our lists below.

On one last positive note, dozens of unsold, strike-addled, online Classics items are said to be scheduled to come on-shelf in Flagship stores over the next two or three weeks. So, time to check back with the LCBO if you have taken the summer off.

Buyer’s Guide Aug 10 and 24: Rosé and Sparkling

Solis Lumen Rosé 2023, Languedoc, France
$14.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
Sara d’Amato – With a name that evokes Mediterranean sunsets, this juicy, dry rosé with a relaxed elegance is made by Bernard and Olivier Coste of Domaine de Montrose rooted in Pézenas in the Languedoc. This IGP Pay’s d’Oc blend is made from organically raised grenache and cinsault from partner growers. A poolside rosé with a touch more finesse than the norm. I would like to find this wine in sustainably packaged bag-in-box as is sold in France.
David Lawrason – Here is a very tidy, clean and light rose with pure aromas of peach and strawberry. It is very crisp and tart-edged, but most of all ultimately refreshing. Great end of summer hot weather kicker.

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