If I Could Buy Only One – March 30th Vintages Release
We asked our writers, “If you could buy only one wine from this release, which one would it be and why?”
Thirty Bench Steel Post Vineyard Small Lot Riesling 2020, Ontario, Canada
$33.95, Andrew Peller Limited
Michael Godel – Thirty Bench Steel Post Vineyard Small Lot Riesling 2020 is an Ontario legend in terms of riesling and the one from Emma Garner at Thirty Bench that defies logic with a magical spell cast upon the grapes put to bottle. Probably the driest of the Small Lot series at just 11 g/L of residual sugar, impossibly converted and qualified by just 11.2 percent alcohol with what must be an acidity number that’s just about as high as the sweeter rieslings in the portfolio. The energy and vitality are exceptional, the warmth of the vintage delivers top quality, if absolutely pristine fruit and then there are the qualities of extract and tannin cohabitating at this highest level of composure. The potential here is unlimited. One of the finest rieslings ever made in Ontario and this one goes up to 11.
Vinosia Santandrea Taurasi 2017, Campania, Italy
$30.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
David Lawrason – In 2022, I spent two weeks in southern Italy tasting aglianico-based wines from Mount Vulture, Taurasi and other locales in Campania (around Naples). I was engaged by their energy and fragrance, but so often accompanied by a toughness and tannin that only age could temper. So, I perked up when this crossed the tasting bench. This is one of the most supple and approachable Taurasi I have ever had, yet it still has the energy and intensity without resorting to overt sweetness (which is becoming common in cheap southern Italian reds). The nose is pretty with cherry/plum, red rose, light cinnamon and vague earthiness. It is full bodied, rounded and warm with excellent length. Nicely done.
John Szabo – My only one this week takes us to Campania in southern Italy. Know as “Campania Felix”, or “the happy country” during Roman times for its abundance of everything, it’s one of Italy’s most gastronomically rewarding regions, wine included. I fell for the Luciano Ercolino Vinosia Santandrea Taurasi 2017, a wine made from aglianico that is showing beautifully now, with an uncommon degree of polish and refinement. I like the floral dimension, the ripe red and black fruit flavours, the sweet herbs, the overall complexity in a comfortably medium-full-bodied expression. Drink now or continue to hold until the end of the decade.
Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2022, Mosel, Germany
$31.95, Family Wine Merchants
Megha Jandhyala – My “only one” this week is an exquisite Kabinett from the Mosel. The 2022 Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is stony and mineral yet opulent. It is unfortunate that sweet wines seem to have fallen out of favour lately – they can be some of the most concentrated, beautiful expressions of place and grape. This riesling is impeccably balanced and intense, saturated with flavours of perfectly ripe peaches, apricots, lemons, and honeysuckle. Sweet, honeyed tones are balanced by a hint of salinity and firm, powerful acidity. I would serve this with a rich, creamy, slightly sweet, and delicately spice-infused sauce, along the lines of a shahi paneer, for a pairing that will elevate both the food and wine.
Use these quick links for access to all of our Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take
Megha’s Picks
Michael’s Mix
Szabo’s Smart Buys
