If I Could Buy Only One – Nov 11th, 2017 VINTAGES Release

As part of our VINTAGES recap, we asked our critics: “If you could buy only one wine from this release – which one would it be and why?”

Our picks from the November 11th VINTAGES release:

Michael Godel: The wines of Bourgogne are expensive because the quantities are finite, their availability is scant to rare and 1700-plus years of recorded history is a long time to get things right. The cost of exceptional Premier Cru Bourgogne chardonnay from the fine, finer and finest parcels starts at $100 and there are but a few examples to be found at a lower cost. That is why … this VINTAGES release of Picard Le Charmois Saint Aubin 1er Cru 2014, AC Bourgogne is so tempting and for those who choose to afford it, so necessary. This is a chardonnay to place the village of Saint Aubin in a remarkable light if only because it’s the most stony, flinty and tightly wound example just about ever. The Charmois is the elevator that carries the appellation into a purity of climat for Bourgogne Premier Cru. In this case terroir delivers the idea of climat but it is the interaction of the maker that defines the notion simply because there is no mess and no fuss. It just feels like drinking straight from a bleed of the calcareous land, as might happen in a limestone goblet filled with Montrachet. You have no idea how good a deal this is from the most excellent 2014 vintage.

Sara d’Amato: Maury Sec is one of France’s newest appellations having been created six years ago surrounding the village of Maury in Languedoc previously known only for its sweet, fortified wines. Adjacent to Corbières and butting up against the Pyrenees, Maury’s grenache dominant reds have striking similarities to those of north-eastern Spain. Not to missed is Domaine Cabirau Serge & Nicolas 2014 Maury Sec, Languedoc-Roussillon ($24.95), a sensually aromatic version that is both opulent and sophisticated.

John Szabo, MS: It’s impossible to replace time in the development of complex, aged wine flavours, and we sadly experience them all to rarely. But here’s your chance to buy a pre-cellared, ready to drink red that’s very keenly priced: Château Bouscassé 2006 V Vielles Vignes Madiran AC, Southwest France ($38.95). Some vines at Bouscassé, the estate belonging to Madiran reference Alain Brumont (also owner of Montus), are claimed to be up to 150 years old. True or not, this ’06 is still amazingly deeply-coloured, even if the wine has shifted in to the fully umami-laced spectrum of flavours, like dried porcini, damp earth, old leather and dried black fruit, highly complex and intriguing. The palate is rich, thick, chewy and firm, big enough to cut with a knife, though also lively enough to carry the weight. For fans of mature wines, this is a steal, pre-cellared and ready to go, or hold another dozen years if you prefer. Best 2017-2028.

Use these quick links for access to all of our Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.

Michael’s Mix
Szabo’s Smart Buys
Sara’s Sommelier Selection
Lawrason’s Take